Hello family and friends!
It has been a few weeks since I put up an update, and though I don't have time to upload any pics at this time, I wanted to at least put up a little update...
After departing Cusco on March 12th, I traveled to Arequipa, Peru (Southwest) to meet up with L and B once again. We decided that we wanted to explore the ¨deepest canyon in the world¨ (said with a deep voice:)), called the Cotahuasi Canyon. This is 12 hours by bus from Arequipa, but these 12 hours are not easy travel, let me tell you. The bus leaves Arequipa at 3pm and arrives at 3am. The latter 2/3 of the trip are over unpaved, bumpy, curvy, mountain roads. In fact, you have to go up over a pass of over 4000 meters! When we arrived in Cotahuasi, we were happily met by a hostel, and rested our weary bodies for the remainder of the night.
The next few days were filled with explorations...hot springs, small mountain towns, beautiful day-hikes up to interesting ruins. Then, we returned to Cotahuasi and headed in a different direction, up to Pampamarca. There, we encountered 4 French volunteers, and an AMAZING rock forest on the top of the mountain with the best 360 degree views I have ever seen. After busting it to some natural hot springs (where my right big toe had an unfortunate encounter with some hidden rocks...), we returned to Cotahuasi, exhausted, sunburned, and happy from our explorations.
After a few more days in Arequipa (and a very kind visitor from Cusco), I headed out on my own...which has landed me in...PATAGOINA! I crossed the border into Arica (northern Chile) and flew to Santiago and then onto Punta Arenas, which is indeed in Patagonia. There, I met up with a friend of Seppe`s and then took a bus further south to Ushuaia, the official furthest southern city in the world. How cool! So here I sit, staying at a very cool hostel, meeting loads of other interesting travelers, and trying to decide what to do next. I have loads of options, it is just deciding which one to take that is the toughest part. I will have to keep you posted!
For sure, I will eventually head back up to Punta Arenas, then head further north to visit Torres del Paine, which is a national park outside of Puerto Natales, in Chile. I will have to keep you posted on what I do while I am down here, at the end of the world, as they like to say here...the adventure continues!
Until the next update (and hopefully some photos, just know that I am happy, healthy, and well traveling down here. I will try to upload pics soon!
Abrazos grandes,
Laurita
Friday, March 28, 2008
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
Pics from the Choquequirau trek
View from the first pass we reached, looking into the Apurimac valley towards the ruins we would climb to.
And there are still snowy peaks in the Southern Peruvian Andes!
Amazing to be so high...clouds don't look real up there.
Seppe taking a break as we descended via switchbacks into the valley.
Another look into the valley, this time on our way up the other side.More pics
A view into the Apurimac valley.
These are the ruins we were heading towards. These are terraces, which the Incas used to cultivate their crops at altitude. Smart folks.
Campsite just below the ruins.
A view of the upper ruins from the top.
That's me!!! On top of the world...A few more
On top of the ruins...
Sunset the last night.
The sign once we returned to Cachora...32 km one way.Monday, March 10, 2008
Another trek...this time, the Southern Peruvian Andes
Hola Todos!
Well, the trekking has continued...this time, I headed out with Seppe from Cusco to do the infamous Choquequirau trek. These are Inca ruins that are tauted to be larger than Machu Picchu, but are much less excavated, harder to get to, and relatively unknown. The only way to see them is by hiking there, which is what we did. (Note: the vast majority of people choose to do this trek with a guide and horses. But of course, we couldn't do it that way...) After departing from a small village (Cachora) about 4 hours from Cusco on Th morning, we soon found out why most people take horses with them...to carry their stuff up and down the steep, steep switchbacks! These were some of the most intense and continuous switchbacks I have ever seen. Our saving grace was the altitude, which was lower than Cusco...thank goodness.
Day 2 started with a descent into the valley floor and, after crossing the Rio Apurimac, we headed UP. And up and up and up. Constant switchbacks for 7 hours had our legs quite tired when we finally reached the ruins, where we camped for the night. The ruins are divided into 2 different sections, the main part being on the top of the mountain. There is also stone terracing part way down the mountain face, where it is thought the Incas cultivated their crops. The morning of Day 3 we rose early and hiked up to the top of the ruins. We were alone, wandering through ancient stone buildings and tossing a frisbee atop the highest peak. Quite an amazing morning.
After exploring for a few hours, we started the 2-day trek back to where we started. We re-traced our steps (painfully) back to an amazing campsite on the other side of the river, where we were blessed with an incredible sunset...a nice way to end a tiring day! The morning of Day 4 we arose early, to begin our 19km hike out of the canyon. And you think that is where the story ends. Ha! It continues...
Back in Cachora in mid-afternoon, we struggled to find a way back to Cusco. We found a taxi to take us out to the main road, where we waited for 2 hours, as full buses and taxis passed, already loaded down with people heading back to Cusco from the weekend away. Finally, a nice man and his girlfriend stopped and picked us up, saying they were headed back to Cusco and wouldn't mind having us hitch a ride. Very nice! (I love this country.) However, karma got the best of us, as the man´s (turned out to be a police officer from Cusco) car broke down 1/2 hour later. After some rather interesting-looking fixing techniques (which included Seppe and I running behind it, pushing the car so it could start), we got it going again, only to have it putter out a 2nd time 15mns later. This time, he decided to have his battery charged, which he did and we were on our way. That is, until it got dark and we were in the middle of NOWHERE where, of course, it broke down again, this time for good. Seppe and I stood on the side of the road hailing cars and trucks for 3 hours, until finally we got a trucker to stop and pick us up. He was a nice guy who brought us all the way to Cusco (still 140 km away at that point). Returning to the house at 1am, dirty, hungry, cold, wet, and tired was NOT exactly how we thought we'd end our journey. But then again, it's all part of traveling!
So, there you have it! The adventure continues...I will be in Cusco for the next days, and then off to meet back up with Lib and Benj to do some trekking and exploring in the Arequipa area (southwestern Peru). I will keep the blog up-to-date as much as I can and, of course, get some pics up from the recent jaunt. (The current computer is so old it doesn't have a USB port...shocking!) Keep the emails coming - it is great to get news from home!
Besos from the Andes,
Laurita
Well, the trekking has continued...this time, I headed out with Seppe from Cusco to do the infamous Choquequirau trek. These are Inca ruins that are tauted to be larger than Machu Picchu, but are much less excavated, harder to get to, and relatively unknown. The only way to see them is by hiking there, which is what we did. (Note: the vast majority of people choose to do this trek with a guide and horses. But of course, we couldn't do it that way...) After departing from a small village (Cachora) about 4 hours from Cusco on Th morning, we soon found out why most people take horses with them...to carry their stuff up and down the steep, steep switchbacks! These were some of the most intense and continuous switchbacks I have ever seen. Our saving grace was the altitude, which was lower than Cusco...thank goodness.
Day 2 started with a descent into the valley floor and, after crossing the Rio Apurimac, we headed UP. And up and up and up. Constant switchbacks for 7 hours had our legs quite tired when we finally reached the ruins, where we camped for the night. The ruins are divided into 2 different sections, the main part being on the top of the mountain. There is also stone terracing part way down the mountain face, where it is thought the Incas cultivated their crops. The morning of Day 3 we rose early and hiked up to the top of the ruins. We were alone, wandering through ancient stone buildings and tossing a frisbee atop the highest peak. Quite an amazing morning.
After exploring for a few hours, we started the 2-day trek back to where we started. We re-traced our steps (painfully) back to an amazing campsite on the other side of the river, where we were blessed with an incredible sunset...a nice way to end a tiring day! The morning of Day 4 we arose early, to begin our 19km hike out of the canyon. And you think that is where the story ends. Ha! It continues...
Back in Cachora in mid-afternoon, we struggled to find a way back to Cusco. We found a taxi to take us out to the main road, where we waited for 2 hours, as full buses and taxis passed, already loaded down with people heading back to Cusco from the weekend away. Finally, a nice man and his girlfriend stopped and picked us up, saying they were headed back to Cusco and wouldn't mind having us hitch a ride. Very nice! (I love this country.) However, karma got the best of us, as the man´s (turned out to be a police officer from Cusco) car broke down 1/2 hour later. After some rather interesting-looking fixing techniques (which included Seppe and I running behind it, pushing the car so it could start), we got it going again, only to have it putter out a 2nd time 15mns later. This time, he decided to have his battery charged, which he did and we were on our way. That is, until it got dark and we were in the middle of NOWHERE where, of course, it broke down again, this time for good. Seppe and I stood on the side of the road hailing cars and trucks for 3 hours, until finally we got a trucker to stop and pick us up. He was a nice guy who brought us all the way to Cusco (still 140 km away at that point). Returning to the house at 1am, dirty, hungry, cold, wet, and tired was NOT exactly how we thought we'd end our journey. But then again, it's all part of traveling!
So, there you have it! The adventure continues...I will be in Cusco for the next days, and then off to meet back up with Lib and Benj to do some trekking and exploring in the Arequipa area (southwestern Peru). I will keep the blog up-to-date as much as I can and, of course, get some pics up from the recent jaunt. (The current computer is so old it doesn't have a USB port...shocking!) Keep the emails coming - it is great to get news from home!
Besos from the Andes,
Laurita
Sunday, March 2, 2008
Pics from the Cordillera trek
Just as we were heading out from the lodge...happy crew! (And you'd never guess I had a fever of 102, now would you??)
A view up the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca, the first valley we hiked into. We took a left at the end and headed UP. The is morning of Day 2.
A beautiful glacier, one of many, we saw during the ascent. Hell yeah, Cordillera!
Snowy peaks EVERYWHERE!!!
And even some condors...this one came quite close, as we were heading above 4500 meters.Saturday, March 1, 2008
More pics from the trek
And then the snow started...moning of Day 3. A bunch fell overnight, enough that the tent sides kept collapsing.
Snow face-wash!
A beautiful snowy morning!
A view as we headed up to the top of our pass. This is about 2 hours from the top.
Following the cairns up...pretty handy!More snow!
View of the three of us at the top of the pass...at about 5200 meters!
A view into the next Quebrada...we descended down this entire slope (amidst a complete white-out snowstorm) and then slept on the valley floor.
The beautiful Cordillera, still stunning us with views.
The next morning, STILL snowing...
A little pack of horses, curious as to why we were trekking along in their quebrada.
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